FOR THE FOODIES Little Black Pig & Sons carries the imprint of chef David Lakhi, whose culinary roots span Punjab farms and Italian kitchens. His Heidelberg dining room champions local makers and heartfelt cooking, transforming humble ingredients into plates shaped by memory and instinct. When you’re creating a new dish, what’s the very first thing you pay attention to — the ingredient, the feeling, or the story you want it to tell? I’m always looking for what story we can tell about the dish, the ingredients, and where they are sourced from. At the end of the day, we obviously eat to fill our stomachs, but we also do that because it gives us the opportunity to connect with each other through the stories we tell and share. You learnt to cook through instinct and memory. How can home cooks begin to trust their senses the way you do, rather than relying on recipes? I always work with one formula, and that is to trust your instincts, cook with your senses, and don’t overcomplicate. Cucina povera and your childhood in Punjab share a deep respect for humble ingredients. What’s one everyday ingredient you believe people overlook, and how would you bring it to life? People always overlook vegetables. We’re constantly fed the idea of vegetables being boring, but if you do them right, they can be delicious. I’ve seen people overlooking red cabbage. The way we use it is by cooking it with Granny Smith apple, fennel, brown onion, garlic, and a dash of balsamic vinegar. This way, it becomes the perfect side for any pork dish. Your menus shift with growers, weather and community. What’s the most surprising ingredient or seasonal gift that changed the direction of a dish, and what did it teach you? The most important lesson I’ve learnt with seasonality is that the quality of the produce is paramount. When you’re a young cook, you want to create and plate a dish that might have ingredients which are not in season, but you’ve decided to go ahead and put them on the plate anyway. The dish might look good for the eyes but not necessarily for the palate. Take a tomato when in season and grown ethically; all you need is fresh basil leaves, good cold-pressed olive oil, and locally sourced fresh buffalo mozzarella. A handful of ingredients, and you’ve got a pretty good dish. Little Black Pig & Sons feels built on feeling as much as flavour. What’s one piece of kitchen wisdom from your mother or Nonna Clara that you return to when you want food to carry heart? I remember the simplest and most delicious meal I’ve ever tasted in my life, Nonna Clara’s pasta e fagioli. She taught me to cook from the heart and smile while you do. We cooks have a very privileged role in this society to recreate memories and stories through a plate of food. At The Table With David Lakhi Co-Owner and Chef at Little Black Pig & Sons, Heidelberg, Melbourne Hugh Davidson for Little Black Pig and Sons Movida This is the Spanish restaurant that ignited Melburnians’ love for modern Spanish cuisine, and since it opened 20 years ago, it’s been a vibrant, bustling dining spot on the scene. Cutler and Co Cutler & Co. unfolds like a quietly commanding presence in Melbourne’s fine dining landscape — where formality loosens into effortless elegance. Jinda Thai Everyone knows that if you’re looking for authentic Thai cuisine, Jinda is the place to go. Here, they certainly don’t hold back on the heat, and you’ll find regional specialties like crispy catfish and pickled crab not commonly seen elsewhere. 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne 55-57 Gertrude St, Fitzroy 1 Ferguson Street, Abbotsford @movidamelb Hugh Davidson for Cutler & Co @Jindamelb David’s Top Restaurants: I cook the way my mother taught me to live — with care, instinct and whatever the season places in front of me.” 08
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